Leather-clad punks and squatters fighting the police, leftist bohemians and amateur philosophers, Turkish immigrants creating a world of their own — Kreuzberg lures those seeking chaos and adventure. Before the Wall fell, in 1989, all of Berlin had a special edge to it, a sense that life here was dangerous and vivid and played for high stakes; Kreuzberg hasn’t quite lost that feeling. Busloads of tourists no longer move through the area, gawking at the anarchists and punks; the district is more prosperous these days, because the Wall’s fall put it in the center of Berlin. But Kreuzberg still retains its wild old flavor. The best way to get a feel for it is to do as Frank Lehmann, the protagonist of Sven Regener’s 2001 cult novel Herr Lehmann,
STREETWISE
BEST PUB
WURGEENGEL The red walls and velvet upholstery create a sinful atmosphere. If you’re hungry, daily specials can be had from the Gorgonzola Club next door. Dresdener Strasse 122, tel. +49 30 615 5560
BEST RESTAURANT
ALTES ZOLLHAUS Located in a former customs house on the quiet Landwehrkanal River, this spot specializes in traditional German cuisine and wine from a well-stocked list. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30,
tel. +49 30 692 3300
BEST MUSIC VENUE
SO36 It’s one of the oldest clubs in Kreuzberg and still a magnet for music lovers. Highly recommended are Wednesday’s Hungry Hearts nights, a gay and lesbian house party. Oranienstrasse 190, tel. +49 30 6140 1306
BEST BERLIN FASHION
MOLOTOW Offers a wide range of fashion and millinery from Berlin designers. Collections include futuristic creations, plus classical styles and custom tailoring. Gneisenaustrasse 112, tel. +49 30 693 0818
BEST ART
KUNSTLERHAUS BETHANIEN Bethanien specializes in shows on current social topics, such as Turkish artists in Berlin. Most exhibitions are related in some way to Kreuzberg itself. Over 400 artists from 30 countries have worked at Bethanien’s studios as part of its international program. Mariannenplatz 2,
tel. +49 30 616 9030
does when the Wall comes down. “Well, I’ll simply start walking,” he thinks. “[And] the rest will somehow fall into place.”
Berliners traditionally split the neighborhood in two: the better-off, bohemian Kreuzberg 61 and the grittier SO36, both named after their postal codes. Start your walk by heading south from Mehringdamm station in Kreuzberg 61 and take a stroll up the Kreuzberg itself, a 66-m-high hill that gave the district its name in 1921. From the monument to the Wars of Liberation of 1813-15 at the top you have a sweeping view of the city and can relax to the sound of the waterfall tumbling down to Kreuzbergstrasse. Composer Giacomo Meyerbeer and philosopher Georg Friedrich Hegel were two of many historical figures who took their beers in Viktoria Park on the Kreuzberg. Centuries earlier medieval Christian knights known as Templars cultivated vineyards on the hill — a practice revived by the local horticultural office in 1968.
At the bottom of the hill follow Kreuzbergstrasse east, until you come to Bergmannstrasse with its Cassata boutique and Logo used records store. If you prefer outdoor markets and health food, don’t miss the bio-market at Chamissoplatz on Saturday mornings, just two streets south of Bergmannstrasse. Lined by beautiful stucco buildings, this square sports a dozen dainty stalls that offer organic vegetables, cheese, bread and meat.
When you’ve had your fill of goat’s cheese or muesli, hop on the underground and head northeast, getting off at Kottbusser Tor in SO36. Stepping off the train you’ll understand why Kreuzberg is known as the largest Turkish city outside Turkey. When Turks first arrived as guest workers in the mid-’60s, they found cheap living space here. Artists, punks and squatters were attracted to the neighborhood for the same reason, but the Turkish community makes up about 30% of Kreuzberg’s population, shaping SO36’s atmosphere with its tea rooms, kebab shops and women in headscarves.
Just north of the underground station is Oranienstrasse, SO36’s main street, a lively mixture of ethnic restaurants, bookstores, jazz clubs, cafs and cocktail bars. To the east it leads into Wiener Strasse and the Madonna bar, the model for the joint Frank Lehmann worked at. If you have the time and stamina, stay until the early morning hours. And do not hesitate to grab a seat at the bus stop out front should the bar be too crowded. When the Madonna closes at 3 a.m., the rest will somehow fall into place.
